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I'm lowering the top BTW





The engineering in the boat the cooling fan circulates air blowing it out between the motors. This wee fan moves lots of air on 7.4 Volts






Arduino Inputs from RX

Ch3   Throttle                       Arduino pin 4
Ch1   Steering                       Arduino pin 5
Ch5   Throttle limit                Arduino pin 6
Ch2   Steering on Throttle       Arduino pin 7

Arduino analogue inputs

Anin 0  Ambient temp sensor                      Anin 1  Hall effect current sensor

Arduino outputs

Pin 8    Left jet
Pin 9    Right jet
Pin 10  Cooling fan speed
Pin 11  Steering

Mixing of the outputs

    
  //SteeringBias
  
  int SterringOnThrottle = (long)map((int)ch4v, 1500, 1100, 0, 1000); 
  
  if(SterringOnThrottle < 0) SterringOnThrottle = 0;
  
  SteeringBias = (long)map((int)ch3v - (int)ch3vWOZ, 0, 1000, 0, SterringOnThrottle); 
    
  int SteeringAngle = (long)map((int)ch3v, 1100, 1900, 1000, 2000);
  
  //Limit fan speed for 11.1 V
  FanSpeed = map(FanSpeed, 1100, 1900, 1000, 1500);
  
  //Update the outputs
   
  Servo1.writeMicroseconds((int)Throttle - (int)SteeringBias);
  
  Servo2.writeMicroseconds((int)Throttle + (int)SteeringBias);
     
  Servo3.writeMicroseconds((int)FanSpeed);
   
  Servo4.writeMicroseconds((int)SteeringAngle);


The cooling system



The fan is a 27 mm EDF should keep the air moving with a 10A ESC




There is a big heatsink and fan on the 30 AMp ESC's






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27
New Yellow Boat 3 Jet pump

Yellow Boat Maiden


First Yellow Boat failures ESC's died in both boats  very high ambient today over 31°C , at the lake, burned out FET's after all the surfing at Sumner I'm surprised after all the reliable running, still we live and learn air cooled in a closed space like the hull was a bit too good to be true.

Fitted 50 Amp water cooled ESC, which is a marinized aero ESC to Henry's boat, as the HK 50A boat ESC's don't seem that great, lots of motor noise and heating, regardless of settings it seems.

Changes:
Replaced faulty servo with metal gear type
New improvedWater cooled ESC
Water cooling for motor
Water cooling pump

Thrust vectoring modification


Thrust vectoring in action


Thrust vectoring trim tab

Archimedes screw type pump and cooling system for motor.

 Flexible coupling for thrust vectoring servo push rod.

ESC installed aft as the boat trims very bows down note the water cooling, water is pumped and scooped (when moving) from under the boat, and flows through the motor then the ESC and out of the transom so you can see that it is working.

Cooling pump switch, always turn on before launch, it takes a while to prime usually after a bit of forward motion you should see a flow from the outlet. Forward motion will also generate flow but the pump will stop over heating when you stop so you can stop and start as much as you like.
Radio is mounted to avoid water. Both servos are Turnigy 180 degree metal gear type

New Parts

H-KING 50A Fixed Wing Brushless Speed Controller
Turnigy TGY-R5180MG 180 Degree Metal Gear Analog Servo
ESC
Amp rating: 50A
Burst Rate (15sec): 55ABEC Current: 2A, 5V (Linear)
Voltage: (2-4 cell Lipo)
I added two Aluminium cooling tubes boned to its heat sink





Weight: 12g
Size: 23.2mmx12.0mmx21.6mm
Torque: 2.0kg.cm (6.0v)
Speed: 0.12sec/60deg (4.8v) - 0.10 sec/60deg (6.0v)
Voltage: 4.8-6.0vType: Analog MicroGear Train: Metal
Ball Bearing: NoLead Length: 180mm
Plug: JR/Futaba





The water pump showing the motor out on an old servo left, and the intake scoop, you can see the end of the screw


The pump used an ancient Greek idea the Archimedes' screw


This is the screw I used its for GIB board 
Principal of operation














Dic
22

Yellow Boat 3 Power Test Scratch Built hull, water jet and cooling pump made from Coroplast and junk

100A ESC, 500 watt motor, heli motor, jet pump, scratch build, scratch built jet, yellow boat Commenti disabilitati su Yellow Boat 3 Power Test Scratch Built hull, water jet and cooling pump made from Coroplast and junk 

Yellow Boat 3 Power Tests with Turnigy 500W H450 2100kv





Scratch Built hull, water jet and cooling pump made from Coroplast and junk Yellow Boat 3 Power Test

Cooling pump testing here 

Test results

Dynamic losees
29.5 Watts
2.3 Amps

Peak power
532 Watts
47.5 Amps on a 3C 

Impeller
30 X 30 two blade 

Quite pleased with test results pretty good match motor to impeller it seems. Tried a 30 X 35R impeller which drew too much current the 30 X 30 seems just about optimal.

Home brew cooling small centrifugal pump made from junk, with a scoop on the hull. The pump is mounted directly above the scoop and primes its self with the standard trim at rest.

I also found that if I re-introduce the out let from the cooling circuit into the jet ramp, there is a tendency for the water to be sucked through by the main drive when the throttle is up thus improving cooling flow at high loads, a win win. I wanted a pump because taking a tap from the pressure side of the jet outlet uses some thrust and is only available at speed, with low throttle or stopped there is no flow and this I thought would cause over heating when stopping after a long high power burst, which I do when surfing at Sumner.

The tiny pump on test


The cooling circuit. I found that if I re-introduce the out let from the cooling circuit into the jet ramp it helps with coolant flow. 


Turnigy 450 H2218 Brushless outrunner 2100KV with water cooling added, big bore pipes just because that the brass I had in stock. 

Spec.
Model: 2218 
Turns: 6
Cells: 2~4S
Kv: 2100rpm/V
No load Current: 1.9A/10V
Max power: 500W
Weight: 67g
Shaft diameter: 3.17mm
Dimensions: 27.2 x 36.5mm
Recomended ESC: 2~4S/50A

Hobbyking SS Series 90-100A ESC with a water cooling plate added its an overrated ESC so should do the job easy. Will need a BEC I have a 5A in stock also.



Spec.
Weight: 85g
Size: 70x50x13mm
Cells: 2-7S Li Po 
Max Current: 90A [over 70A use 6S only]
Burst : 100A
No BEC



Generally the larger jet is much more effective at lower throttle in  the bath, this will be better for trolling in the swamp. On the lake speed remains to be seen, but I can't believe it will be disappointing given the flow and power levels I'm getting on test. I suppose its possible the nozzel velocity is lower than the NQD jet, that said I have read that if the ratio of nozzel velocity is greater then 6:1 then all will be well with the world. 


Given the area increase from 3.14159 cm² to 4.818 cm² which is an area increase of 1.533 at the same nozzel velocity the mass flow would increase by 1.533 times.

So every second the following would seem to add up

So as we know the NQD 20 mm jet pushed around 950 grams on Yellow Boat 1, the nozzel velocity  must be around 3.023 Meters / Second with no losses? This is where I get into the realm of I don't understand :O fluid dynamic being so complex, although non compressible fluids like water are less complex mathematically than the calculations for air for example 

Just for fun with an exhaust velocity of 22.5 Meters per Second that's around 80 kph

Every second a bar of water from the 20 mm jet has a volume of  7069 cm³ So the mass flow would be 7.069 Liters per second so 7.069 Kgs sec

Every second a bar of water from the 30 mm jet  has a volume of  10841 cm³ So the mass flow would be 10.841 Liters per second so 10.841 Kgs sec


Definition from Wikipedia

One watt is the rate at which work is done when an object's velocity is held constant at one meter per second against constant opposing force of one newton.


So transpose the above to make kg the subject
With no losses I recon 500 Watts could move 22.22 Kgs to 22.5 Meters a second in one second. Sounds like a lot of water 22.2 Liters Umm???

However the impeller is probably only 60% efficient this is true in air a turbine can only be 59.8 % efficient its called the Betts limit I think.

So 22.2 X 0.6 = 13.33 umm 13 Liters a second sounds like a lot ?

One way to test this is to measure the amount of water the pump moves over a fixed period of time, simple then to workout all the things we want to know.







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18
The hull is 4 inches longer than Yellow Boat 1 the keel is fiberglass and epoxy as are the chines, everywhere else its hot glue. Much cleaner hull then the earlier boats but still a bit ugly.
These hulls are tough as, run them into rocks do what you like they just flex. I suppose they would fail at the seams when they do, that's why I glassed in the keel.The hull is all one piece of Coroplast split in the front sections and glued. I scored the folds with a ball point pen so they bend correctly, getting better with the material now.


The ride plate is glassed in on the inside so its really stiff, as the pump is all outboard I have recessed the transom to hide it away a bit. Its a big jet unit.

Room for 2 X 11.1V 2200mAh 20C batteries in parallel should deliver up to 80 + Amps
The cooling system is here

Turnigy 450 H2218 Brushless outrunner 2100KV with water cooling added, big bore pipes just because that the brass I had in stock. 

Spec.
Model: 2218 
Turns: 6
Cells: 2~4S
Kv: 2100rpm/V
No load Current: 1.9A/10V
Max power: 500W
Weight: 67g
Shaft diameter: 3.17mm
Dimensions: 27.2 x 36.5mm
Recomended ESC: 2~4S/50A


Dragster exhausts :) for the cooling water I have fashioned a pump from some old junk which can bee seen here

Hobbyking SS Series 90-100A ESC with a water cooling plate added its an overrated ESC so should do the job easy. Will need a BEC I have a 5A in stock also.


Spec.
Weight: 85g
Size: 70x50x13mm
Cells: 2-7S Li Po 
Max Current: 90A [over 70A use 6S only]
Burst : 100A
No BEC 




A real yellow boat






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