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Racing is certainly exciting for the person rocketing around the track fast enough to get the speedometer into the triple digits, and tends to be a decent thrill for the spectators if they’ve got good seats. But if you’re just watching raw race videos on YouTube from the comfort of your office chair it can be a bit difficult to appreciate. There’s a lack of context for the viewer, and it can be hard to get the same sense of speed and position that you’d have if you saw the event first hand.

In an effort to give his father’s racing videos a bit more punch, [DusteD] came up with a clever way of adding video game style overlays to the recordings. The system provides real-time speed, lap times, and even a miniature representation of the track complete with a marker to show where the action is taking place. The end result is that recordings of Dad’s exploits on the track could pass as gameplay footage from Gran Turismo (we know GT doesn’t have motorcycles, but you get the idea).

The first part of the system is the tracker itself, which consists of a GPS receiver, an Arduino Pro Micro, and an SD card module. [DusteD] powers the device with two 18650 cells in parallel, and a DC-DC boost converter to step it up to 5V. Everything is contained in a 3D printed enclosure that he designed in OpenSCAD, with the only external elements being a toggle switch, a momentary switch, and most critically, a set of LEDs.

These LEDs play into the second part of the system, the software. The blinking LEDs are positioned so they’ll get picked up by the camera, which is then used to help synchronize the data stored on the SD card with the video. [DusteD] came up with some software that will take the speed and position information from the card, and turn it into PNG files with transparent backgrounds. These are then placed on top of the video with the help of FFmpeg. It takes a little adjustment to get everything lined up properly, but as the video after the break shows the end result is very impressive.

This build reminds us of the Raspberry Pi powered GPS helmet camera we featured a few years back, and it’s interesting to see how the two projects achieved what’s essentially the same goal in different ways.

If the term “3D printed weather station” makes you think of a printed enclosure for off-the-shelf sensors, don’t feel bad. We thought the same thing when we first read the message [Rob Ward] sent in about his latest project. Surely he couldn’t mean that he actually printed all the principal parts of a serious weather station setup, such as the wind vane, anemometer, or rain gauge?

Except, on closer inspection, that’s exactly what he did. Every part of the weather station is designed in OpenSCAD, printed out, and infused with various vitamins to turn them into functional pieces of hardware. Interestingly enough, most of the magic is done with simple reed switches and magnets.

For example, the wind vane uses eight reed switches and an embedded magnet to communicate the current wind direction to the Arduino Uno which handles the user interface. Wind speed, on the other hand, it done with a single reed switch as it just needs to count rotations to calculate speed.

[Rob] did “cheat” by using an off-the-shelf barometric pressure sensor, but we’ll give him a pass for that one. Unless somebody wants to hit the tip line with a design for a printable barometer, we’ll consider this the high water mark in printable weather stations.

This isn’t the first time we’ve seen a DIY anemometer or rain gauge, of varying degrees of complexity. But the clean look of the final version, completely open nature of the OpenSCAD source, and the low part count make this an extremely compelling option for anyone looking to up their home forecasting game.

Hope you weren’t looking forward to a night of sleep untroubled by nightmares. Doing his part to make sure  Lovecraftian mechanized horrors have lease in your subconscious, [Paul-Louis Ageneau] has recently unleashed the horror that is Eyepot upon an unsuspecting world. This Cycloptic four legged robotic teapot takes inspiration from an enemy in the game Alice: Madness Returns, and seems to exist for no reason other than to creep people out.

Even if you aren’t physically manifesting nightmares, there’s plenty to learn from this project. [Paul-Louis Ageneau] has done a fantastic job of documenting the build, from the OpenSCAD-designed 3D printed components to the Raspberry Pi Zero and Arduino Pro Mini combo that control the eight servos in the legs. If you want to play along at home all the information and code is here, though feel free to skip the whole teapot with an eyeball thing.

A second post explains how the code is written for both the Arduino and Pi, making for some very illuminating reading. A Python script on the Pi breaks down the kinematics and passes on the appropriate servo angles to the Arduino over a serial link. Combined with a web interface for control and a stream from the teapot’s Raspberry Pi Camera module, and you’ve got the makings of the world’s creepiest telepresence robot. We’d love to see this one stomping up and down a boardroom table.

Seems we are on a roll recently with creepy robot pals. Seeing a collaboration between Eyepot and JARVIS might be too much for us to handle. Though we have a pretty good idea how we’d want to control them.


The first time I saw 3D modeling and 3D printing used practically was at a hack day event. We printed simple plastic struts to hold a couple of spring-loaded wires apart. Nothing revolutionary as far as parts go but it was the moment I realized the value of a printer.

Since then, I have used OpenSCAD because that is what I saw the first time but the intuitiveness of other programs led me to develop the OpenVectorKB which allowed the ubiquitous vectors in OpenSCAD to be changed at will while keeping the parametric qualities of the program, and even leveraging them.

All three values in a vector, X, Y, and Z, are modified by twisting encoder knobs. The device acts as a keyboard to

  1. select the relevant value
  2. replace it with an updated value
  3. refresh the display
  4. move the cursor back to the starting point

There is no software to install and it runs off a Teensy-LC so reprogramming it for other programs is possible in any program where rotary encoders may be useful. Additional modes include a mouse, arrow keys, Audacity editing controls, and VLC time searching.

Here’s an article in favor of OpenSCAD and here’s one against it. This article does a good job of explaining OpenSCAD.

[Editor’s note: This is a Hackaday writer’s hack, hence the “I” in place of the usual “we”. We all love custom peripherals though, and a good number of us love OpenSCAD, so you could probably read it either way, but we don’t want to take credit for [Brian]’s work.]

Filed under: 3d Printer hacks, Arduino Hacks

The Rabbit H1 is a Stationary Mouse Replacement

3D printing, arduino, arduino hacks, CNC, controller, mouse, openscad, Teensy Commenti disabilitati su The Rabbit H1 is a Stationary Mouse Replacement 

rabbit h1

[Dave] has some big plans to build himself a 1980′s style computer. Most of the time, large-scale projects can be made easier by breaking them down into their smaller components. [Dave] decided to start his project by designing and constructing a custom controller for his future computer. He calls it the Rabbit H1.

[Dave] was inspired by the HOTAS throttle control system, which is commonly used in aviation. The basic idea behind HOTAS is that the pilot has a bunch of controls built right into the throttle stick. This way, the pilot doesn’t ever have to remove his hand from the throttle. [Dave] took this basic concept and ran with it.

He first designed a simple controller shape in OpenSCAD and printed it out on his 3D printer. He tested it out in his hand and realized that it didn’t feel quite right. The second try was more narrow at the top, resulting in a triangular shape. [Dave] then found the most comfortable position for his fingers and marked the piece with a marker. Finally, he measured out all of the markings and transferred them into OpenSCAD to perfect his design.

[Dave] had some fun with OpenSCAD, designing various hinges and plywood inlays for all of the buttons. Lucky for [Dave], both the 3D printer software as well as the CNC router software accept STL files. This meant that he was able to design both parts together in one program and use the output for both machines.

With the physical controller out of the way, it was time to work on the electronics. [Dave] bought a couple of joysticks from Adafruit, as well as a couple of push buttons. One of the joysticks controls the mouse cursor. The other joystick controls scrolling vertically and horizontally, and includes a push button for left-click. The two buttons are used for middle and right-click. All of these inputs are read by a Teensy Arduino. The Teensy is compact and easily capable of emulating a USB mouse, which makes it perfect for this job.

[Dave] has published his designs on Thingiverse if you would like to try to build one of these yourself.


Filed under: Arduino Hacks

Le retour de l’hexapode Bleuette

3d, arduino, Bleuette, Bot, diy, hexapode, openscad, planet, Robot, Robotique, Ultimaker Commenti disabilitati su Le retour de l’hexapode Bleuette cette fois ci, il n'est pas content !

Ce projet à pour but de fabriquer une bestiole à 6 pattes et de la faire marcher sans l'aide de quiconque. Pour certain d'entres vous, le nom “Bleuette” vous est peut être familier, en fait, c'est une féminisation de Bleuet, le robot de la série FX, Effet spéciaux, nous n'avons aucun rapport avec cette série mais on s'est dit que le pauvre Bleuet devait se sentir seul et qu'il faudrait lui fabriquer un congénère et puis tant qu'à faire femelle… :) extrait de la page du wiki sur Bleuette

Le projet s'est arrêté il y a quelques années faute d'avoir trouvé une solution robuste pour le pivot de chaque patte, sur notre prototype, il était réalisé en bois mais nous voulions une autre matière plus robuste. Le projet est bien sûr OpenSource / OpenHardware.

Une des première version de Bleuette

Plus d'informations sur la première version :

Le logiciel

De grosses modifications vont être faite sur la partie logiciel par rapport au plan initial, sur la première version de Bleuette, c'est une carte à base de PIC qui devait être développé from scratch et exécuter le noyau temps réel PICOS18 mais afin de simplifier la prise en main, une carte Arduino sera le cerveau de l'engin et une carte fille développée par mes soins en 2006 pour Bleuette sera utilisée pour piloter les 12 servos de manière parfaitement synchrone.

La nouvelle structure

Dans ses premières versions, Bleuette était réalisé en Plexiglas, découpé à la scie sauteuse et à la scie à chantourner, un vrai boulot, long et pénible avant de nous rendre compte des limites de cette matière : elle est cassante et se raye facilement.

Puis, nous avons pu faire découper gracieusement toutes les pièces (patte et corp) en Lexan par, merci Jean-Louis pour le boulot, cette matière est beaucoup plus solide, ne se casse pas et résiste incroyablement bien à la torsion mais nous n'avions toujours pas de réelle solution pour les supports de pattes autre que le bois...

Et depuis, plus rien, quelques années se sont écoulées et, depuis, l'impression 3D s'est considérablement développée, au point d'être devenue attractive pour les particuliers et intéressante pour un projet comme Bleuette, l'achat d'une l'Ultimaker à été guidé par l'arrière pensée de pouvoir enfin finir ce projet et là, plus aucun souci concernant le pivot : il sera comme toute le reste : en PLA.

Tous les plans de Bleuette ont été refait à l'aide de OpenSCAD, un dépôt GitHub à été créé à l'occasion pour partager tous les documents inérant à la fabrication du robot.

Le corps de Bleuette modélisé avec OpenSCAD
Le corps de Bleuette

Son corps étant trop grand pour être imprimé en une seule fois sur la surface de mon imprimante 3D, j'ai développé une librairie OpenSCAD qui permet de découper des pièces avec un motif en queue d'arronde (dovetail), ainsi, le corps sera réalisé en 3 tronçons qui seront emboités les uns aux autres et enfin définitivement bloqués à l'aide de tiges filetées.

Découpe en queue d'arronde du corps de Bleuette

La suite

Pour le moment, la dernière section (partie haute et basse) est imprimé, ça à pris environ 13h d'impression, j'imprime à 50mm/s pour avoir la meilleure qualité possible, 1 patte est fonctionnelle pour le moment, le design n'est pas figé encore, j'y apporte quelques corrections...

Avancement du moment avec le test de la cinématique du mouvement de la patte :
Test de la cinématique de la patte

Todo liste mécanique :

  • Correction des entretoises des pattes
  • Ajout d'un support pour une tête
  • Bout des pattes avec capteurs d'appuis

Restez connecté à Bleuette !

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